What Is Hyaluronic Acid (HA)? Read the Label in 5 Minutes

Understanding HA

Thai shoppers often call it “ไฮยา” (hiya). HA is a glycosaminoglycan found in skin, with the ability to bind and retain water. [1]

Start with the ingredient name, then check what kind of product you are holding. Look beyond the HA wording on the front of the box.

Names to recognise

These names refer to related forms of HA, each conveying something different. Use the table as a starting point. [2]

Some labels also give the molecular size. The review reports that in topical formulas HA below 100 kDa can penetrate the skin, and that the larger the molecule, the more viscous the solution. [2] In our range, Aquatic HA lists high-molecular-weight HA of about 1.5 MDa; it is a procedure product, not a topical serum.

• Record the full ingredient names, including unfamiliar ones.
• Ask the manufacturer for formulation details if you need the concentration.

Read concentration without guessing results

Under U.S. cosmetic labelling rules, ingredients generally appear in descending order of quantity, but those at 1% or less may appear in any order. Position alone therefore cannot give an exact percentage. [3]

HA plays a role in retaining water; that function does not establish the performance of a whole serum. [1] Before comparing HA serums, ask for formulation details and evidence for the finished product rather than judging by ingredient order alone.

Check the intended use separately

Even cross-linked HA has been studied in topical formulations. An ingredient name or the word “cross-linked” does not establish that a product is suitable for injection. [2]

Injectable products, including fillers and injectable skin boosters, must be used by a licensed doctor in a licensed clinic. [6] The U.S. FDA describes filler injection as a medical procedure and advises against self-injection. [5] The doctor chooses the product and determines its use after an assessment.

The U.S. FDA warns that unintended filler injection into a blood vessel can cause tissue death, blindness, or stroke. [5] Before a procedure, ask your doctor to explain the intended use and risks of the proposed product.

Check the label before use

Thai FDA recommends checking the Thai-language label for the cosmetic’s name and type, ingredients, directions, manufacturer or importer, net contents, batch number, manufacturing or expiry date, and notification number. [4]

• Read and follow the formula’s directions and warnings. [4]
• Keep photographs of the packaging and label for questions to the manufacturer or doctor.
• Stop using the cosmetic if you notice an abnormal reaction, as Thai FDA advises. [4]